I have a new prayer or mantra or thought that goes
constantly through my head “we have everything we need”. I don't
know what has bought on this feeling of benevolence unless it is that
we are in a place of invention, a place where everything is used.
This is a clean place; every front yard of bare earth is swept every
day, every floor is washed and every hand before every meal. There is
rubbish on the road walked into the dust but only in small pieces, a
last desiccation of bits too small to be turned into tools or rugs or
water containers or string.
It is a great frame of mind to be in and makes me
look at every problem in a new light. For instance at home if I don't
have a remedy that someone needs I buy it, here we must work with the
remedies that we brought over for the students on this trip and on or
last two trips. If someone needs an unusual remedy there is nothing
we can do, we have to work out of this smaller remedy kit. But it is
very good for us to know what it is like to prescribe from a smaller
range of remedies – we need to put ourselves in our student's
shoes.
And we need the forty minute walk to our classroom
every morning and the walk home again in the evening. We could go by
taxi but that would be an expense and we need the walk. This is our
pace, our count of days and time, our preparation for a full on day
and our chance to release the adrenalin in the evening before we
crash into sleep at eight thirty (nearly three hours after dark in a
country that gets up at 5am – not an unreasonable time to go to
bed).
Yesterday we saw quite a few patients after teaching
so it got dark as we were walking down the hill. The first stretch of
our walk from the classroom is through fields on the high plain above
the town, up here there is a lot of sky and, to the North, we can see
the mountains in the distance. The most built up area starts when the
road turns down the hill and for most of our walk is lined with
houses and full of traffic, more traffic as darkness falls and rush
hour begins. We join the weave of foot traffic spread across the
road, stepping aside when we hear the rattle of a bicycle behind us
or when we are lit from behind by the dancing lights of a car.
The road is made of baked mud and has deep, dry
gullies on either side, cut by the past rain, it has the constant
sound of feet, many conversations and calling voices. During the day
the children shout to us “wazungu, wazungu!” delighted to have
seen such a sight as three wazungu walking down their road but in the
darkness no-one can see how strange we are. The cars and bicycles
come and go with their rattling and beeping, pushing everyone aside
but the constant is the walking people giving an age old, footstep
beat stringing through the random chaos. We have everything we need.
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